LAWN CARE
Ideas and Tips

Fall Care for Lush Lawns
Did you know that fall is the most important time of the year to ensure a robust, healthy lawn through the summer? Read more.

Q: What kind of lawn fertilizer should I use? Read tips.
Q: What do I do about moss in my lawn? Read tips.
Q: What can I do about mushrooms in my yard? Read tips.
Q: What is red thread? Read tips.
Q: How do I reseed my lawn? Read tips.
Q: What do I do about thatch? Read tips.
Q: How can I control weeds in my lawn? Read tips.

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Q: What kind of lawn fertilizer should I use?
A: " We recommend the use of organic fertilizers whenever possible. Organics break down more slowly, providing a constant level of soil fertility. Some evidence also indicates that organically fed lawns have fewer disease problems in the long run.

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Q: What do I do about moss in my lawn?
A: Moss in the lawn is a common, easily cured problem. It develops chiefly for four reasons:

• Low soil fertility (lawn needs more fertilizer)
• Soil too moist (lawn needs better drainage)
• Soil too acid/ low pH (lawn needs more lime)
• Too much shade

To kill the existing moss, use a product containing ferrous sulfate (Moss-Out or Nu Life Rid Moss) or a fertilizer/moss control combination. Aeration (yearly or every other year) with a tool that removes a plug of soil, yearly application of dolomite lime, and regular feeding will help prevent moss from redeveloping. Dolomite lime is important because it not only stabilizes the pH, it also adds the nutrients calcium and magnesium, which are leached out of the soil in our heavy winter rains.

Shade is best dealt with by limbing-up or thinning out trees and shrubs, and by yearly reseeding with more shade-tolerant grasses such as Sky's Custom Shade Blend. If you have a fully-shaded area, grass is not going to do well no matter what you do. You may want to consider installing a shade-loving groundcover in such areas.

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Q: What can I do about mushrooms in my yard?
A: Mushrooms do not normally damage grass or other plants. The only problem is aesthetic. In fact, fungi are decomposers, breaking down thatch and other dead matter; they can make nutrients more available to plants. So if you can, just live with it. If you find it unsightly or are concerned about toxins, one solution is to just mow or break off the mushrooms.

Currently the only product available to discourage mushrooms is Consan 20. Lime is not effective against fungi. If using Consan 20, please consult an expert at Sky Nursery for directions.

For Fairy Ring, apply Consan 20 as directed for mushrooms or drench the area with a wetting agent such as Water-In. Please consult an expert at Sky Nursery for directions.

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Q: What is red thread?
A: Red thread is a common Northwest turf fungus spread by wind and rain during conditions of high humidity and cool weather when grass is growing slowly. It appears as areas of cream to coral fuzz over irregular patches of lawn. Underfed and underlimed turf is most susceptible to it. Although the disease is not fatal, it can make your grass look rather sad.

The best treatment is to mow 30% shorter than usual (be sure to collect and dispose of the clippings) and give the lawn a good application of fertilizer and lime to help it outgrow the fungus. Continue to feed every 30 to 60 days until the red thread is gone. When watering, long infrequent soakings are best. If chemical control is needed, Consan 20, Mancozeb, and Fung-Away are listed as preventative controls. Some studies have shown that organically-fed lawns are less susceptible to the fungus.

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Q: How do I reseed my lawn?
A: Reseeding/renovating your lawn is best done April through October (depending on rainfall). First, aerate any compacted areas with a device that removes plugs of dirt, and thatch if necessary. Mow the lawn about 30% shorter than normal. Fill in any low spots with Sky Premium Planting Mix. If the depth of the fill is more than 2", roll with a partially-filled water roller to compact the soil. Apply seed, lime, and starter fertilizer, cover with peat moss or Grass Mulch and thoroughly water. Keep moist for 2-4 weeks. (It is time to water whenever the peat moss changes color from dark to light brown.) Fertilize again in about a month with a regular lawn fertilizer - NOT a Weed and Feed.

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Q: What do I do about thatch?
A: Over time some lawns develop a layer of old roots and grass stems between the grass and the soil surface called "thatch". This is usually a symptom of poor biological activity in your soil. If this layer becomes too thick (1/2" to 3/4"), water, air, and fertilizer cannot reach the grass roots and the lawn begins to thin out, especially in the summer. Keeping your grass mowed to a uniform height (1 1/2" to 1 3/4") year round and using organic fertilizers like Ringer Lawn Restore or Whitney Farms Lawn Revival can help prevent thatch from accumulating.

The new Organica line of products contains soil micro-organisms that will break down any thatch and improve your soil's biology. Grasscycling, or leaving the clippings on the lawn after mowing, will also help. The grass blades themselves do not normally contribute to thatch because they are 98% water and fertilizer. To grasscycle, either use a mulching mower or mow more frequently so that the cut blades are smaller, and keep your mower sharp.

If you do have a problem layer of thatch, remove it with a thatching rake or a power thatcher. For heavy buildups, cross-raking will be necessary. The lawn will look thin and sparse, but it will quickly generate new growth. Then follow the directions for RESEEDING.

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Q: How can I control weeds in my lawn?
A: Broadleaf weeds are best controlled from late spring through early fall by physical removal or by a weed killer. Granular weed and feed products work on the larger leaf weeds like dandelions but not on small leaf plants like clover. Liquid weed killers/herbicides like Lilly Miller Lawn Weed Killer used on warm, dry days work on both. Most herbicides work best at temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees. If it is cooler or warmer, wait for better weather for best results. Follow label directions carefully, particularly regarding rain or watering.

Weed grasses must be dug out or spot treated with a glyphosate product (Roundup or Knock-Out). These spots may be reseeded immediately if dug or about ten days after herbicide treatment. Unfortunately, there is no product that kills undesirable grasses without also destroying desirable ones! Corn gluten (an organic pre-emergent herbicide) or Lilly Miller Ultragreen Crabgrass Control may be used to prevent new weed seeds from growing for up to 60 days. These products suppress ALL seed germination - do not use on a newly-seeded lawn! Two or three applications between April and October are needed to control weed grasses like annual bluegrass (Poa annua).

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