TREES AND SHRUBS
Ideas and Tips

General Planting Instructions

Pruning Tips
Here are a few pruning tips from the expert. Read tips.

Flashy Plants for 2004
The wait is over for some spectacular species. In 2004 Sky is proud to offer a broad selection of new varieties. Read tips.

Q: What does "deciduous" mean? Read tips.
Q: What can I do about anthracnose on dogwoods? Read tips.
Q: Do I leave the burlap around the roots when I plant a "B & B" plant? Read tips.
Q: What about the pulp pots? Can I leave them on when I plant? Read tips.
Q: What is the general procedure for planting trees and shrubs? Read tips.

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Q: What does "deciduous" mean?
A: " Deciduous" means that the plant is leafless during the dormant season. Trees such as maples are deciduous. Trees such as Douglas fir are considered "evergreen" because they retain their foliage all year long.

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Q: What can I do about anthracnose on dogwoods?
A: Unfortunately, the best thing you can do is avoid it altogether by planting resistant varieties. The Korean dogwood, Cornus kousa, or Cornus kousa chinensis, is the best. If you have a vulnerable variety, try using Immunox when the leaves emerge.

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Q: Do I leave the burlap around the roots when I plant a "B & B" plant?
A: Keep the burlap tied around the roots while you are checking the planting depth. Set the burlapped rootball into place. Do not cut the string from the rootball until the plant is in its permanent place. Peel the burlap approximately 1/2 way back. Tuck the excess burlap into the hole. Fill around the root ball with amended soil (see general planting procedures).

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Q: What about the pulp pots? Can I leave them on when I plant?
A: It is better not to. Those pots will decompose, but not as rapidly as your plant will grow. The recommended procedure is to remove the plants from the pots and plant them normally.

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Q: What is the general procedure for planting trees and shrubs?
A: Follow these steps:

1. Water the plants and planting area first. Never plant a dry plant or place a plant into dry soil.

2. Dig a hole three times the width and slightly deeper than the root ball you are placing into the ground.

3. When soil appears to be clay or sand, work in one-third organic material (such as screened compost, fertile mulch, or peat moss) to two-thirds of the existing soil. Then mix bone meal or a transplanting fertilizer into the planting hole.

4. Fill the hole with enough amended soil so that when the plant is placed into the hole, the root ball will be slightly higher than the original soil level.

5. Remove the plants from their containers. (If the plants are wrapped in burlap refer to instruction 6 below.) Loosen the roots around the edge. Set the plant carefully into the hole so as not to break up the root ball. Fill around the roots with amended soil.

6. Balled and burlapped: Keep the burlap tied around the roots while you are checking the planting depth. Set the burlapped ball into place. Do not cut the string from the rootball until the plant is in its permanent place. Peel the burlap approximately 1/2 way back. Tuck the excess burlap into the hole. Fill around the root ball with amended soil.

7. Water the new plants thoroughly. Use Whitney Farms Smart Start, Green Light Root Stimulator, Superthrive, or Lilly Miller Vita Start as recommended for about 3-4 weeks.

8. Staking Trees: If a tree needs staking, stake low - 2 to 3 feet from the ground if possible. This allows the tree tops to move in the wind and gain strength.

9. Over-watering plants is a very common mistake. Water newly transplanted plants when the soil on their rootballs gets on the dry side. Check often the first few months. Water well when you do water, but allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

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